Last reviewed: October 9, 2026. General information only. Generator installation involves electrical, fuel, and carbon monoxide hazards. Use a qualified electrician and follow the manufacturer’s instructions and your local code requirements.
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Power outages are part of rural life around Keuka Lake. Winter storms, summer thunderstorms, wind, and falling trees bring lines down, and repairs on back roads can take time. In a house with a well, a septic pump, and a furnace that needs electricity to run, an outage doesn’t just turn the lights off. It can mean no water, no heat, and a septic tank filling up.
This guide covers what actually stops working in an outage, how to plan for one, the choice between portable and standby generators, and the safety rules that matter most: backfeeding and carbon monoxide.
What stops working in a Keuka outage
Most lake homes depend on electricity for more than lights:
- Water. A well pump or lake-intake pump needs power. No power, no running water (and no toilet flushing after the tank empties).
- Heat. Most oil and propane furnaces and boilers need electricity for controls, burners, blowers, and circulator pumps. Heat pumps and electric heat stop entirely.
- Septic. A gravity system keeps working, but a pump system can’t move effluent, so the pump tank fills.
- Sump pumps. Basements that rely on a sump can flood during storms, exactly when the power is most likely to be out.
- Food and medicine. Refrigerators and freezers warm up; medical devices stop.
- Communication. Internet routers and some phone service go down without backup power.
Before the next outage
Even without a generator, a little preparation goes a long way:
- Store water for drinking, cooking, and flushing.
- Keep flashlights and batteries instead of relying on candles.
- Know how to report an outage. NYSEG customers can report and check outages on NYSEG’s outage page. Penn Yan village electric customers should check with the village utility.
- Sign up for alerts through NY-Alert.
- Test carbon monoxide and smoke alarms, and keep spare batteries.
- Know your septic and well setup so you know what to conserve.
- Have a plan for heat, especially if anyone in the household is vulnerable to cold. Know where you’d go if the house gets too cold.
Portable vs. standby generators
Portable generators
Portable generators are the most common first step. They usually run on gasoline (some on propane or dual fuel), and they power selected loads through heavy-duty extension cords or through a properly installed transfer switch or interlock.
Pros: lower upfront cost and flexibility. Cons: you have to set them up outside in bad weather, refuel them (often every several hours), store fuel safely, and manage carbon monoxide risk.
Standby generators
Standby generators are permanently installed outside the house, usually run on propane or natural gas, and start automatically through an automatic transfer switch when the power goes out.
Pros: automatic operation, no extension cords or refueling trips to the gas station, and they can run whole-house or large loads. Cons: higher cost, permits and professional installation, and fuel supply planning. A standby generator on propane draws from your tank, so size the tank and your delivery plan with long outages in mind; see our propane guide.
Some towns regulate where standby generators can sit. Milo’s zoning law, for example, says an emergency standby generator must be set back from a neighboring lot line by whatever the Uniform Code, the manufacturer’s instructions, or five feet requires, whichever is most restrictive (Milo zoning, Part 4). Ask your town’s code office about permits before installation.
Sizing: what do you really need to run?
New York’s Division of Homeland Security and Emergency Services (DHSES generator safety) advises choosing a generator by evaluating which appliances you really need in an emergency. For many lake homes, the essentials are:
- the well pump
- the heating system’s controls, burner, and circulators or blower
- the septic pump, if there is one
- the sump pump
- the refrigerator and freezer
- some lights and outlets for phones and internet
Motors (well pumps especially) draw extra power when they start. An electrician can measure your loads and recommend a size. Don’t guess, and don’t overload a generator; DHSES warns that overloading can cause overheating and fire.
The most important rule: never backfeed
Never plug a generator into a household outlet or connect it to your home’s wiring without a proper transfer switch. DHSES says never to attach a generator directly to a building’s electrical system unless a qualified electrician has installed it with a transfer switch, and that generators connected to existing wiring must use a double-pole, double-throw transfer switch, with all connections complying with New York’s fire and building codes.
Connecting without one is called backfeeding. DHSES explains that it can energize power lines for great distances, creating a risk of electrocution for utility workers and others. It can also damage your generator and your home’s wiring when power is restored. DHSES also notes you may be liable for damage or injury caused by an improperly installed or operated generator.
If you’re not using a transfer switch, plug appliances directly into the generator with grounded, properly rated cords in good condition.
Carbon monoxide: the deadliest generator risk
Generator exhaust contains carbon monoxide (CO), a colorless, odorless gas that can kill quickly.
- Outdoors only. DHSES says never use a generator indoors or in enclosed spaces such as garages, crawl spaces, and basements, and warns that open windows and doors may not prevent CO buildup.
- Distance. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission advises running portable generators outside, at least 20 feet from the house, with the exhaust pointed away from the home and other occupied buildings (CPSC winter safety tips).
- Openings. DHSES says not to place a generator where CO could enter through doors, windows, or vents, and to give it 3 to 4 feet of clear space on all sides and above.
- Symptoms. If anyone feels dizzy, headachy, nauseated, or tired, get to fresh air immediately and seek medical attention.
CO alarms are the law
New York’s Amanda’s Law requires carbon monoxide alarms in one- and two-family homes that have fuel-burning appliances or an attached garage. The Department of State’s 2025 bulletin on CO alarms (PDF) covers the requirements, and DHSES has a carbon monoxide toolbox. Test your alarms before storm season and after any outage.
Fuel safety
DHSES says to shut down a generator and let it cool before refueling, because fuel spilled on hot engine parts can ignite. Store gasoline and other fuels in approved, properly marked containers away from heat sources and living areas, and not inside your home. Keep a generator dry and protected from rain and snow with a canopy designed for it, and never handle electrical parts while wet.
Other backup options
- Battery systems (with or without solar) can run essentials quietly, with no fumes. Capacity and cost vary.
- Non-electric heat, such as a properly installed and vented wood stove, can keep a house above freezing. Have it inspected and keep CO alarms working.
- Alternate lodging. For a long outage in deep cold, leaving may be the safest plan, after you protect the plumbing; see our winterizing guide.
Generator checklist
- List the essential loads and have an electrician size the generator
- Transfer switch or interlock installed by a qualified electrician
- Permit from the town if required
- Outdoor operating spot at least 20 feet from the house, away from openings
- Fuel stored safely, or propane tank sized for outages
- CO alarms installed and tested
- Grounded, properly rated cords for portable use
- Test-run the generator every few months
- Stored water and a heat plan as backup
What to have on hand
Gear that supports the safety steps above (links go to Amazon search results; have an electrician handle anything connected to your wiring):
- Battery or battery-backup carbon monoxide alarms on every level and outside sleeping areas
- Heavy-duty outdoor generator extension cords rated for the load, as DHSES advises
- A manual transfer switch or interlock kit to discuss with your electrician, who should install it
Frequently asked questions
Can I plug my generator into a wall outlet to power the house?
No. That’s backfeeding, and it can electrocute utility workers and others. Use a transfer switch installed by a qualified electrician, or plug appliances directly into the generator.
How far from the house should a portable generator be?
CPSC advises at least 20 feet from the house, with exhaust pointed away from the home and other occupied buildings. Never run it in a garage, basement, crawl space, or porch area where CO can enter.
Will a generator run my well pump?
Yes, if it’s sized for the pump’s starting load and connected properly. Have an electrician check.
Do I need a permit for a standby generator?
Often, yes. Standby generators involve electrical and fuel connections and may have zoning setback rules. Check with your town’s code office.
Are carbon monoxide alarms required?
Yes. Amanda’s Law requires CO alarms in one- and two-family homes with fuel-burning appliances or an attached garage.
Official sources
- NYS DHSES: Generator Safety
- NYS DHSES: Carbon Monoxide Virtual Toolbox
- NYS DOS: Carbon Monoxide Alarm and Detection bulletin (PDF)
- U.S. CPSC: Winter storm CO and fire safety tips (2026)
- NYSEG: Outages
- Town of Milo zoning, Part 4 Standards
Related on Living on Keuka: Winter access · Propane tanks · Septic systems · Well water · Heating costs
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